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Learn form Bill's more than 45 years of billiard experience with his series of excerpts from his many books.
LESSON 1: The Three Slate System PDF (Click the link to open a PDF document of Lesson 1)
The Three Slate System Video (Click the link to open a companion Video for Lesson 1)
How to Play 3-Cushion BilliardsThe game of 3-cushion billiards is actually very simple.
The game is played on a 5 foot by 10 foot table which does not have pockets, only cushions. There are only 3 balls used: a white, a yellow and a red ball. One opponent uses the white ball as his cue ball and the other opponent uses the yellow. The red is neutral.
To score a point, a player's cue ball must contact BOTH of the other 2 balls on the table. This is a game known as "Straight Rail Billiards".
If you wish to play "3-Cushion Billiards", then the cue ball must contact 3 or more cushions and also contact both of the other 2 balls in one shot. The last ball must not be contacted until a combination of 3 or more rails and the first object ball have been contacted. This counts as one point, regardless of how the point is made. Either of the other 2 balls may be contacted first, it does not matter which one, it is up to the player. The first player to reach an agreed-upon number of points, usually 15, or 20, or 25, etc., is the winner.
There are many variations of these shots.
Sometimes a player will hit 2 cushions first, then a ball, then another 2 cushions to the last ball. That is also a point.
The main rule is this: before your cue ball hits the last ball, it must have already contacted the other ball and a minimum of 3 cushions. You cannot hit both balls and then try to get 3 cushions afterwards. First you need a combination of at least 3 cushions and one ball, in any order, before landing on the last ball.
THE TABLE
The 3-cushion game can be played on several sizes of tables, the most common being the match tables (inside length of 2.34 or 2.54 meters), depending on the country. Since the proportions remain the same, the game is not fundamentally modified.
Of course, the bigger the table, the more accurate the player should be. We do not advise to play on too big a table because of the level of difficulty.
THE BALLS
The balls must be clean and in good shape, otherwise one cannot achieve proper results. A set of balls should not be used more than (6) six months when used intensively, such as in a pool hall.
THE CUE STICK
Billiard sticks come in quality and prices that vary a lot. Just as for the table and the balls, the stick is an essential element in order to play well.
One should use a stick weighing a minimum of 510 or 520 grams, because the length of the shots requires a heavier weight. In addition, the stick should be well balanced: the gravity center must be about 40 centimeters from the butt. Also, the stick should obviously be perfectly straight. The shaft should not be too flexible of it will bend when hitting the balls, causing unpredictable effects. Finally, the tip should have a diameter of 11 to 12 millimeters, made of leather, and slightly rounded.
POSITIONING THE BODY
Holding the stick.
The stick is held by the right hand and rests on the bridge made by the left hand. The right hand should hold the stick not too tight and close to the end of the stick. The right arm should stay in the same vertical plane as the stick, even during the shot.
The left hand makes a bridge to guide the shaft. The bridge should allow the stick to guide effortlessly, but without allowing it to move laterally.
The distance between the tip of the stick and the bridge will change: the harder you hit the ball, the longer the distance should be. Note that a longer distance will not be as accurate.
Positioning of the player.
The player should position his body so that he can move his stick very straight and still have a good view of the balls and a good balance.
The face should be vertical to the stick, forcing the balls, low enough for a good aim.
Feet should guarantee a natural balance: the right foot vertical and perpendicular to the stick, while the left foot should be about 45 to the left.
If you respect these conditions, you should not be too far from the ideal position. On certain shots, however, the table will get in the way of the player, who will not be able to achieve a perfect position. He will nevertheless need to keep the positioning of the face and right arm, while the rest of the body maintains balance. Reminder: the rules of the fame dictate that at least one foot should touch the floor.
Movement of the stick.
To simplify the gesture and limit the mistakes, the right elbow should be the only moving joint. This way, the only moving part will be the forearm, which will stay vertical to the stick.
Before throwing the stick into the ball, the players should make a few practice strokes to check that everything is in place and the direction of the stick is right. The player should stay in this position for a few moments after the shot to make sure that he will not move while shooting.
PARAMETERS OF THE SHOT
The parameters are the elements that determine the trajectory of the balls. They make for the technical foundation of the game. The player should proceed in several steps. First he must analyze the different possibilities to score the point, taking into accounts the level of difficulty of each one. This analysis should be based on his knowledge of theories and his experience. Once he has chosen a solution, he will have to determine which parameters to use in order to read his goal. Finally, he will have to make the shot.
Ball quantity.
The ball quantity measures the angle of impact on ball #2 (The ball hit first by the player's ball.), thus determining the initial direction of the ball, this direction being the same as the cue stick's.
This quality can have an infinite number of values, so we will look only at a few ones commonly used by players.
The ball quantity determines almost entirely the initial direction of ball 2 after impact with ball 1. As for ball 1, the direction it takes will be determined by this quantity and also by the height from which it was struck (top, center or low effect.)
Some Shots To Practice
By Jim Shovak - Four Time USBA Tour "B" Champion
BASIC ENGLISHES CHART:
4 Tips 3 1/2 Tips 3 Tips 2 Tips 1 Tip 0 Tips
When the angle from the cue ball to the hit on the first object ball is going directly into the corner or slightly longer (lower right corner in this case), and the first object ball is near the top cushion (one ball's width or less), then the numbers on the top cushion tell you where your cue ball will go with a thin hit and 4 tips of English. Since the first object ball is on the "5" line, then 4tips of English and a thin hit will bring the cue ball to 5 on the 3rd rail (lower left area). Likewise, if the first object ball was 1/2 diamond to the left, then your cue ball "wants" to go to 10 on the 3rd rail.
In this example, the first object ball is at "0", which means just missing the corner. Very handy if you wish to play this drop-in shot.
Since the cue ball "wants" to go to 17 on the 3rd rail with 4 tips of English, then 3 1/2 tips brings the cueball to 15, 3 tips brings it to 12 and 2 tips brings it to 10 to make this shot.
In this shot, 4 tips of English and a thin hit (soft speed) brings it just short of the corner. If the last object ball is along the first diamond of the left side short rail (-1), then use 3 1/2 tips of English. If it is at (-2), then use 3 tips and if it is at (-3) as shown, use 2 tips. Soft speed, thin hit, follow through on stroke. Thin hit is about 1/8
Simple Short Angle System II
By Jim Shovak - Four Time USBA Tour "B" Champion
BASIC ENGLISHES CHART:
A more in-depth look at my last article and more. First, let's examine the Englishes. There are many different variations of these englishes, but these are the basic ones I use. You may have different names for these englishes, but this is how I name them.
4 Tips 3 1/2 Tips 3 Tips 2 Tips 1 Tip 0 Tips
Now let's look at the shot we looked at previously, only with a lot more detail.
First, let's straighten some things out before you get scared. If your cue ball and the first object ball are lined up directly with the 2nd diamond on the long (top) rail, then the foundation shot is this: 4 tips of English, ½ ball hit, soft follow-through stroke. Your cue ball will hit 25 on the 3rd (bottom) rail. This is only true if your cue ball and the first object ball are separated by a distance of around 2 diamonds or more. When the balls are closer, it changes. That's another lesson.
By looking at the numbers listed on the top long rail, you will see that this is the map whereby you will know where your cue ball wants to hit the 3rd (bottom) rail if the first 2 balls (your cue ball and the first object ball) are lined up directly with those numbers. For example, if the first 2 balls are lined up directly with the middle diamond on the top long rail, then your cue ball will hit 17 on the 3rd rail (bottom) if you use 4 tips of English, a ½ ball hit and a soft follow-through stroke. I prefer to use the numbers 7 and 2 all the time instead of 7½ and 2½ and 17½ and 22½. To keep it simple, I call it 22, 17, 32, 37, etc.,
This “map” comes in handy especially if the first 2 balls are lined up with the number 2 and you have a “difficult” shot where you need to go directly into the corner. The number 2 equals the corner. This “difficult” shot is now a “gimme”. Just remember to execute properly and the shot is made. The number 0 equals just shy of the corner. This comes in handy if you want to play a drop-in shot just missing the corner. It now becomes a much easier shot. The number -2 (minus 2) misses the corner even more and is ideal for many “difficult” drop-in shots in the corner area.
To make the shot above, use the next lower English which is 3½ tips (high maximum). I call this English “minus 2 english” because it takes you ¼ diamond shorter. Notice that with this hit on the first object ball, you should get a nice position with several shot options.
For this shot, use 3 tips of English. I call this “minus 5 english”: 3 tips and a ½ ball hit = minus 5
Above, you want to go “minus 7” (25 is the foundation and you want to go to 17), use 2 tips, ½ ball hit.
To get to 15, use “minus 10” English. One tip and ½ ball hit.
Finally, to get to 12, use “minus 12” English. Zero tips high ball and ½ ball hit. If you wish your cue ball to hit 10, 7, 5, 2, 0 (missing the corner), then you can no longer hit the first object ball ½ full, at least not comfortably. You would then have to use “Alternate Englishes”.
Alternate englishes may also need to be used if the last ball (3rd ball) is in the path of the first object ball shown throughout the diagrams. We don't want a kiss, so an alternate English and hit would be needed to avoid that.
First, to get your cue ball to hit 10, use “minus 15” English, which is ½ tip English and a ¼ ball hit.
To get to 7, use “minus 17” English, which is center ball on the cue ball and a 1/8 object ball hit.
To get to 5, use “minus 20” English, which is a Zero English high ball and 1/8 object ball hit.
To get to 2, use “minus 22” English, which is a zero English high ball and a 1/16 object ball hit.
To miss the corner, use “minus 25” English, which is slight high reverse and a 1/8 ball hit.
For the diagrammed shots that may have a kiss, here are other alternate englishes and hits:
Cue ball to 25: Same “foundation” result: One tip English, ¾ ball hit, slightly harder.
Cue ball to 25: Same “foundation” result: 4 tips English, ¼ ball hit, with speed.
Cue ball to 22: “Minus 2” English: ½ tip English, ¾ ball, slightly harder
Cue ball to 22: “Minus 2” English: 4 tips English, ¼ ball, medium speed
Cue ball to 20: “Minus 5” English: 0 tips high, ¾ ball, slightly harder
Cue ball to 20: “Minus 5” English: 4 tips English, ¼ ball, soft
Cue ball to 17: “Minus 7” English: 3 ½ tips English, ¼ ball, soft
Cue ball to 15: “Minus 10” English: 2 tips English, ¼ ball, soft
Cue ball to 12: “Minus 12” English: 1 tip English, ¼ ball, soft
I know this is a lot to digest. Practice it and you'll see. Most of the englishes work throughout the entire table (foundation, minus 2, minus 5 and minus 7 englishes). Others change depending on how far you get from the corner (the lower numbers on the “map”). Practice and you'll see what I mean. Hope this helps you to never miss this type of short angle again. However, make sure you miss it when you play me.
